On 12 October 1810, Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig, later King Ludwig I of Bavaria, married Princess Therese von Sachs-en-Hildburghausen. The citizens of Munich were invited to attend the festivities—including royal horse races—which were held outside the city gates on the famous fields known as Theresienwiese, “Therese’s fields”, in honor of the crown princess.
The decision to repeat the festivities the following year gave rise to the tradition of the annual Oktoberfest in Munich, which now begins in late September and lasts until the first Sunday in October. Over time the festival grew. The horse races remained part of it, and a show was added to promote Bavarian agriculture. Tree climbing, bowling alleys, swings, booths, and other attractions appeared. Silver, porcelain, and jewelry prizes were awarded to competitors.
Alcohol consumption was an important part of the festival, and it is no secret that Germans take their beer seriously. In fact, riots took place in Bavaria beginning on 1 May 1844, after King Ludwig I decreed a beer tax. For several days, mobs of workers rioted, looting taverns and attacking the police. Everyone calmed down when the monarch decreed a ten percent reduction in the price of beer. Those rebels would have been appalled to discover prices last year in Munich during Oktoberfest, which according to the AP ranged between €12.60 and €14.90, or $13.45 to $15.90 per litre mug. Cost notwithstanding, Statista.com claims 6.5 million liters of the bubbly brew were poured last year over the course of the festival.
Oktoberfest in Portugal
Obviously, such a legendary fête is celebrated in many locations around the world, and Portugal is no exception. In the north, this year Oktoberfest will again be celebrated at Porto’s Cervejaria Nortada (aka Fábrica Nortada, as it’s not just a bar but also a brew pub) on Rua de Sá da Bandeira, 210. A special menu (entrée, dish, dessert and a half litre mug of beer for 15€) will be offered 1-6 of October and there will be concerts, quizzes, free tastings and more.
While Lisbon has its share of brew pubs offering craft beers, I did not find specific information about Oktoberfest events. Nevertheless, here’s a short list of locations in case you want to quaff some special beer: Dois Corvos on Rua Capitão Leitão in the Marvila district; Musa (nearby Dois Corvos, but there are other Musa locations); and Duque Brewpub in Chiado. Outside of Lisbon, try Pato in Cascais and HopSin Brewpub in Colares.
Authentic
The most authentic Oktoberfest in Portugal I know of takes place at Vila Vita Biergarten located at EN 125 in Porches, in the Western Algarve. Margarida Ramos of Vila Vita Parc, which manages the Biergarten, was kind enough to answer questions for me and permit the usage of photos for this article. She clarified that although they have not enlarged the seating space or dance floor this year as had been rumored, there is space for about 1,000 celebrants nightly. Reservations are highly recommended.
The typical German festival atmosphere will be recreated once again this year from 25 September through 6 October. An outdoor area features benches and murals depicting scenes of Bavarian life. The cozy décor of the interior is lined with 120-year-old vintage wood, giving the sense of a rustic Alpine chalet. The bar at the entrance is covered in wooden tiles used in regional Bavarian design, while upstairs a raised floor area is ideal for live music and dancing. (A German band playing what is fondly referred to as “oompah music” precedes a pop band later on each night.)
Bavarian specialties such as schnitzels, pork shank with sauerkraut, giant beef chop for two with crunchy potato salad, and homemade cold-smoked salmon salad will be served at traditional long tables. Obviously a meat-centered menu, vegan and vegetarian offerings are available, which in the past have included crispy Bavarian blue cheese with potato rösti and blueberries, and Schupfnudeln pasta with roasted vegetables, sautéed with basil and almond pesto. Don’t forget apfelstrudel for dessert, and those delicious pretzels (dessert for this salt lover).
You can choose from an extraordinary selection of excellent beers such as Erdinger Weissbier, one of the most respected German breweries and a partner in the event. Or try Porches Craft Beer—Vila Vita Parc’s own craft beer—whose IPA version (Indian Pale Ale) is a favorite of patrons.
The best way to make a reservation is directly with the restaurant at (+351) 282 381 177, through their website vilavitaparc.com, or by email: fb@vilavitaparc.com.
As the friendly and informative staff dress in traditional German costumes of dirndl and lederhosen, you might find this phrase useful: “Du hast eine super geile Lederhosen an.” (“Your leather pants are really cool”).
Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.
Tricia Pimental